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Wednesday 9 July 2008

Drapers Trends. Bread & Butter 2008

Witts gave us the heads up about the online trend talk with the Editor of Drapers, Khabi Mirza.

Here's what he had to say....the controversial Plaid even got a mention!

CHECKS:
[Comment From Tim] -
Checks have really hung around. I would fear I'd be left with a lot of checked shirts etc if they become a bit passe?

Khabi Mirza -
Checks were probably the single biggest trend seen at Bread & Butter in terms of options available and I don’t think the sight of so many checks came as a major surprise to anyone. The trend first emerged in some directional collections last summer but it really gained momentum this current season. Whether you find yourself at a music festival, a bar, or in the middle of a shopping centre, the chances are you’ll spot plenty of checks this summer.
Now, it doesn’t take a Sherlock to see that the high street has been all over the trend this summer but I’m confident there’s enough consumer appetite to carry the story through to next year. I still believe checks have yet to reach the mainstream consumer who will grow more confident with checks this summer before buying into them in spring 09.

Definitely. Checks have plenty more mileage but the cut should be slim, tech colours need to be adventurous and there has to be a design-led point of difference from the £5 army suplus versions out there.

Most buyers were too early on the checks trend. I dont think mainstream punters will be buying into checks in earnest until spring 09.


INDEPENDENT BRANDS:
Khabi Mirza - Unfortunately the trend among buyers in today's cautious climate is to strip back the little brands and back the big boys. I'm all for buyer choice particulalrly when big brands like G-Star are opening so many franchise stores. You know your customer and you know your competition - buy accordingly and never bow to pressure. In the current climate brands need you more than you need them

[Comment From Tina Turnover]
With the online revolution and niche brands blowing up amongst youth culture I would like to think that supporting indie brands would set retailers apart from the mainstream department stores...

Khabi Mirza - There are certainly enough quality indie brands to fuel consumer appetite. It's just about buyers having the guts to back them - remember male consumers are generally an unimaginative lot who only buy what the herd buys.*

*BNTL boys will have something to say about that?...

[Comment From Tina Turnover]
Do you think mainstream brands will continue to callaborate with the indie designers....Uniqlo etc...

Khabi Mirza -
Yes, it's a hassle-free opportunity for brands to inject a personality which could be on-trend but doesn't necessarily fit in with their brand's natural DNA


HIGH WAISTS:
[Comment From mfn]
I'm hoping high waisted jeans/trousers are going to become more popular. Was there any sign of this at bb?

[Comment From Tina Turnover]
More popular? you cant swing a cat in hackney without seeing someone in a high waist!!!

Khabi Mirza -
High waisted jeans were really big for spring 08 and autumn 08 and there are still versions out there for spring 09 but you have to buy from premium led denim brands which understand how to create flattering shapes. It's a difficult look to pull off and only the denim specialists have really made their mark. One of my favourite backers of this trend is the Lou Doillon for Lee Cooper range.









MENS DENIM:
[Comment From Tina Turnover]
In your opinion, What's going on with Men's denim, is skinny here to stay for the fella's?

Khabi Mirza - Commercially it's carrot shaped jeans which will work for spring 09. These give the impression of a skinny leg but have a wide thight which suits a broader range of UK fellas. Also coloured denim, which we saw a bit of this year, will make a bigger dent for spring 09.












Thoughts anyone?...

11 comments:

@witts_bntl said...

it seems that the highstreet is unconciously following our streetwear niche market.

By saying check will be a trend for 2009, something already massive within the streetwear scene especially. Not to mention the indie and vintage crowd?

Coloured denim from brands like 10deep and cheap monday this season and past seasons, will be a trend for 2009 for the highstreet also..

Although i'm warey of her comments on the American streetwear brands. I think the UK brands like Aint and Trapstar can continue to grown and develope their own cult following with no need to break into the high street.

I really think she is looking at the US brands with the same eyes as Ecko and Phat farm, real hip hop wear. The Hundreds, Crooks and 10 Deep really differ from this is so many ways!

@OllieDanger said...

The highstreet following streetwear was to be expected, it happens year after year. Im glad the mainstream doesnt see streetwear as just hoodies and baggy jeans anymore.

Carrot cut jeans is the only jean i'll wear, guys need to let their asses breath. Watching a man waddle down the street in his girlfriends jeans is enough to make me drop my espresso and daily mail.

Thanks for the post Tina.

Elle Bee said...

Interesting stuff

Elijah said...

this is why i juss wear nike and carhartt or anything people give me for free.

clothes debates = long

Joseph 'JP' Patterson said...

is that me lurkin in the back of 2nd pic lol????

Anonymous said...

checks and plaid was indie/alt. staple long before it caught on in the streetwear scene!!

Anonymous said...

plaid is dead.

Anonymous said...

Ye thats you in your ridiculous rope chain

Teejayess said...

Drapers use of the term streetwear covers a different area of the market. They've obviously been talking to the big retailers about the more high street friendly brands. For them to dismiss C&C, 10 Deep and The Hundreds as having limited appeal shows they haven't been speaking to the smaller retailers that are doing well with these labels. And there are quite a few of them around, they just weren't at BBB.

20 years these same people would probably have said Stussy had a limited appeal beyond a core surfer following!

A. said...

I agree with what he said about highwaisted stuff. Theres been soooo many attempts at it, but they are rarely flattering.

Especially when your waist is disproportionate to your rear-end. You're left with sag back and enough space between your flesh and the material for people to get a birds-eye view of your underwear.

Anonymous said...

i'd look good in a old sack so it dont matter

nice post tho tina!